Philadelphia Inquirer

While headed to King of Prussia in 2016 and 2017 before the opening of Mistral restaurant, Princeton-based restaurateur Fia Berisha took side trips to Fishtown.

Fascinated with the neighborhood’s growth, she went on a real estate hunt and found a new building on Frankford Avenue just above Berks Street. Then, a year after her first trip, she convinced investor Stephen Distler and chef-coowner Scott Anderson to take the plunge with a fourth restaurant, after their Mistrals in KoP and Princeton and its fancier upstairs sibling, Elements in Princeton.

On Feb. 7, the three open the candle-lit stunner Aether, what they bill as a neighborhood-friendly bar-restaurant with a raw bar ($2 Little Neck clams and $3 oysters year-round), worldly wine and cocktail list, and an almost all-seafood menu that includes crab linguine among the pastas, a shrimp po’boy among sandwiches, and crispy fried whole branzino among the entrees. (The nonseafood dishes are roasted chicken breast with Thai sausage, shiitake, bok choy, tom yum, and chili oil; steak frites; and a dry-aged burger with bacon jam and garlic aioli.)